Appreciating culture through food and traditions
by Sharon Higa | Jan. 22, 2023
One of the events that signifies a new year to me is the first new moon of the year, which is the Lunar New Year and celebrated by 20% of the world as Chinese New Year or the Spring Festival. As the 2023 Year of the Rabbit approaches, I was fortunate that my colleagues and the recently crowned Narcissus Queen enthusiastically shared their fondest memories of the Lunar New Year, deepening my appreciation for this cultural celebration marked by symbolic foods and spiritual traditions.
“I remember when my grandparents handed out red envelopes filled with money and they would tell me it’s to spread good luck and health while keeping bad spirits away,” said Michelle Chang, a community relations specialist at Hawaiian Electric. She wistfully noted that the tradition sadly ended as the children grew older and her grandparents passed away.
“I can still vividly recall the excitement of getting the red envelopes and eating noodles that were uncut and longer than typical noodles. My grandmother called them longevity noodles to signify a long and healthy life.”
Chinese New Year was always a big deal for Ken Chan, one of our visual communications consultants at Hawaiian Electric, who grew up in New York. “My favorite memories were of lighting firecrackers and following the lion dance from shop to shop.”
He recalled the cacophony of cymbals and drums as the procession wound its way through Chinatown to chase away the bad luck while gobbling up wealth and prosperity that was showered back upon onlookers. “Firecrackers, banging drums and screaming kids, oh what fun!”
“At home in the Chan household, the house was swept (away from the doorway to ensure residual good luck stayed inside) and the walls were festooned in red (double luck signs and posters) and gold signifying good fortune and prosperity,” Ken said. “The dining table spread included whole fish with the eye staring at everyone, whole chicken, noodles, pigs’ feet, oranges and tangerines with the leaves and stems intact, pomelos and jai. The foods chosen were chiefly homonyms for long life, fertility and prosperity.”
According to Briana Ackerman in our Community Relations department, jai is a vegetarian dish eaten on the first day of Chinese New Year to bring good luck all year. On the holiday, Briana’s family gathers together for traditional meals cooked by her mother who hunts around Chinatown for the ingredients and spends days in the kitchen preparing for the party.
“Growing up I never ate jai because I didn’t care for the red fermented bean curd,” Briana said. “But my mom told me that one day I’d acquire the taste and I now enjoy eating jai, which means I’m getting old,” she laughed. “Last year, my mom taught me how to make her style of jai, which my popo (grandmother) taught to her. I hope one day I’ll be able to cook delicious meals like her and continue to pass on the tradition.”
“Chinese New Year is my favorite holiday and literally my Christmas,” smiled Kathy Freitas, a former Narcissus Queen who now works in our Government Client Services department. “I try to go all out with my kids, so they understand that part of their culture, and buy them new Chinese clothes every year (which is a sign of a fresh start).”
Kathy also recalled receiving the red envelopes from her elders and continues the good luck tradition. “The number 8 symbolizes ‘wealth’ and the number 9 means ‘forever’ (homophones in the Chinese language), so I usually try to give amounts in those denominations. Going to the graveyard is another tradition meant to honor your ancestors and pray they bring blessings to your family.”
Like many, Kathy’s family enjoyed traditional new year desserts such as gao, a sticky rice cake which is a homonym for tall or high and a wish to be successful or go higher each year, and Chinese candies, dried fruits, nuts and seeds. “Often, the treats are symbolic, including special “fortune candies” and colorful dried fruits such as apricots, mango, and persimmon which symbolize prosperity and fortune.”
Through Kathy’s connection to the Narcissus Queen pageant organizers, she was able to connect me with the newly crowned queen.
“I can’t go without my popo’s homemade gau at Chinese New Year,” exclaimed Laura Ho, the 73rd Narcissus Queen, who will represent the Chinese community and Hawaii during her reign. “My favorite way to eat gau is when it’s fresh because it’s perfectly warm and gooey. Just make sure not to cut your gau on the first day of the new year so you don’t cut your luck!”
Aside from helping to make huge batches of gau with her family, the tea ceremony is Laura’s favorite new year’s tradition. “The younger generation will prepare and serve tea to the elders, who in turn will present red envelopes. What makes this special to me is the opportunity to express gratitude and respect to our parents, grandparents, uncles and aunties through a simple yet meaningful ceremony. It’s a tradition I look forward to continuing.”
As a cultural ambassador, Laura acknowledges the unique opportunities she will have to share our local cultures, traditions and values. “Through interacting with people within the community as the Narcissus Queen, I hope to inspire others to embrace their heritage and learn more about Chinese culture. I am also looking forward to facilitating cultural exchange beyond the Chinese community and bridge the unique cultures of Hawaii together.”
Sharon Higa is a senior communications specialist at Hawaiian Electric Company.
